check this out
http://www.trademe.co.nz/Antiques-collectables/Militaria/Swords/auction-285500554.htm
omg so cheap! and cool!
If its anything like the mercenaries long sword, I agree. OTOH, maces and morning stars are easy to make, and donât use much in the way of materials. The marginal cost of making a mace (unpainted) is less than $10 (half a length of fibreglass rod (~$4), 0.2 square metres of foam (~$1.5), some ADOS (~$1)). Latex and paint will add to that, but I doubt the marginal cost is going to be anything like $50.
This looks to be one of the Excalibur weapons that Ryan used to ship. While youâre right, savant, that one can be made cheaper if you have the inclination, the one on sale is pretty decent quality if itâs the same as itâs predecessors, and will be better than anything home-made.
Oh Lochie, so overly excitable.
There are frequently excalibur weapons available on Trademe, the come from the now defunct Medieval shop in Auckland. These have been cropping up on Trademe for a couple of year, they are older stock, though unused.
I have one of these morningstars, brought it from Ryan P (when he was claring out) ages back, its still going strong despite having had fairly significant use. My only compaint is how light it is, the grip is a little spongy.
And speaking of Ryans products, Lochie, if you want a shorter weapon, have a look at what Ryan Paddy has on offer. I can purchase on your behalf and you will be able to benefit from my discount.
I broadly agree with all the comments above.
You can make a morning star cheaply (if you have the skills and materials), but itâs unlikely to come out looking as nice or being as durable as the Ex-Caliber morning star. Itâs much easier to make your own larp-safe hafted weapon than to make a larpsafe sword, because narrow sword tips are very difficult to craft in a way that is safe, durable, and attractive. Thatâs why I imported some very nice DIY blank swords with the tips already constructed by an engineer. I still have two of these available, and theyâre cheap.
The Ex-Caliber weapons like the morning star are light. But I see that as a benefit, because itâs harder to hurt someone by accident with a light weapon. Canât comment on the grip, havenât used one enough.
They are a short weapon. In terms of pure fighting effectiveness, a 60cm mace is much less effective in a larp fight than a 100cm longsword, because of reach. Even a 60cm short sword is more effective, because swords are a maneuverable shape. But the maces and morning stars look cool and different.
One more thing Iâd add, is that the Ex-Caliber morning star is probably the weapon that I was least comfortable with the safety level of, of all the weapons Iâve imported. The spikes are too pointed and hard for my liking, I would prefer if they were either softer or more rounded. But so long as theyâre used with extra care, I still think theyâre larp safe.
hmmmmmm
cheese.
if you know then you shall understand.
As one in the throes of attempting latexing for the first time, without a professional sprayer, or a dipping tube⌠I say $60 is a damn good deal on a professional-quality weapon!
A small brush youâre happy to throw away afterwards, and a large supply of patience and decent weather can go a long way towards getting a good result. It does tend to leave slight brush-strokes, but theyâre not that visible in play.
We tried a dipping tube up in Auckland without much luck, the results were of uneven thickness and drippy. I think we needed to use thin (milky) latex, not the medium thickness stuff I usually use for brushing it on, and to do it in multiple coats.
âGood weatherâ is a relative term in Wellington!
Derek suggested I thin down the latex a little, and thatâs worked a treat. Iâm now using a combo of foam brushes, and very very smooth foam makeup sponges. Itâs the best combo Iâve found so far. Though I am working with a rather old and somewhat lumpy bit of foam so my results wonât be as nice as if it were brand new. (Or, letâs face it, if I was any good!)
Good to know about the dipping. Thatâs what we were going to do with the blanks we purchased.
As frustrating as itâs been, Iâve enjoyed the learning process quite a lot.
Excellent. Now you can teach me.
Iâm sure it works well if done properly, we were just guessing and got it wrong. I understand some UK manufacturers do it that way.
Iâm sure it works well if done properly, we were just guessing and got it wrong. I understand some UK manufacturers do it that way.[/quote]
Bryn mentioned something about sticking a pin in the tip of the item youâre dipping, which acts as a sort of âcollection pointâ for the extra latex and gives it somewhere to drain off uniformly. You end up with a string of latex at the tip that you have to cut off. Did you guys do something like that?
Excellent. Now you can teach me.[/quote]
Iâll be happy to teach once Iâve got a finished product Iâm happy with/have my âtechniqueâ down.
Yes, we used a pin to collect latex at the tip.
I think our problem was overly-thick latex, which resulted in an uneven coating as it kind of sloughed down the foam in waves. If Bryn has done dipping before with success then he doubtless knows how it do it properly. Itâs probably one of those techniques that it helps to see done in person, instead of trying to do it based on descriptions on the internet like we did.
wow i started an alright subject!
now all we need is a dancing gnome and itâll get 40 million veiws.
lol