Latexing swords

I’m making some new toys, including a sword that I’m painting with latex.

I’ve sprayed the foam with ados F2 (as per Ryan’s suggestions some years back). Now I’ve painted over that a few layers of liquid latex with about 10% by volume black water based interior paint added.

I’ll dry brush some silver on later (checking to see it doesn’t dissolve the latex first).

Is there a recommended finish for the latex? It still seems, if not sticky, quite “grippy”.

I seem to remember people recommended a little bit of talcum powder or some such…

???

I would recomend a clear layer of latex over the brushed on silver as a final layer (just one coat - or two thin coats…) and then rub a small amout of talcum powder on it to remove the “tacky” effect and you should be rocking.

The reason I reccomend a final layer of latex over the paintwork is to prevent it chipping or cracking when it is used in combat. Its totally optional but it should mean the weapon lasts longer without needing a touchup. Also - all latex weapons should be rubbed down with talcum powder after an event (just a small amount kids) as latex is infact water soluble and you will end up with a weapon that looks like it has the equivalent of wood worm :slight_smile: (lots of tiny holes)

Yeah what he said - after watching David make his Caspian destroyer and chainsword recently and successfully discolouring one of my own, you definitely want your last colour layer to be latex/paint, with an ultra-thin clear layer over the top. Talk to David about the brand of metallic paint he used too, as many of them have some copper-based compound in the pigment that breaks latex down and makes it goopy and useless.

With no treatment at all, latex is sticky. It will accumulate dust and lint until there’s no sticky surface left. Bare latex will stick to other bare latex like anything.

Talcum powder is the cheap way to remove some of the the tackiness of a latex surface while keeping a fairly consistent finish. It will dull the colour a bit, and will need to be re-applied after getting damp.

Most clear varnish will look good until used, then it will crackle. It’s not flexible enough.

Professional latex weapons makers use various top-coats made from horrible stuff like roof sealer. I don’t know of anyone in NZ who has identified a brand of sealer here which is suitable. It would need to be clear, flexible, and durable. The one that I understand is often used in the UK is a multi-part mix that is highly toxic. I gather there are better options also available, but the professionals are probably keeping it under their hats what those are.

I vote talcum powder, is cheap and non toxic :stuck_out_tongue:

I used a very small amount on the sword I bought from yourself Ryan between each game, and didn’t notice any dulling at all :smiley:

Isoflex is the really unpleasant stuff that a lot of people in the UK use to coat weapons to make them more hard wearing. I’ve attached a couple of pictures which may make tracking something similar down if people want to try. Some people don’t like the really gloss finish it leaves and have started experimenting with other coatings, I’d heard some people had tried using plastidip so brought some to experiment with, I’ll bring something up to St. Wolfgangs I’ve tried it on.

http://forums.rule7.co.uk/Topic67475-11-1.aspx

Rather than talc some people use polishes, I’ve tried this Armor All car spray (again from the UK) it seems to work well but needs to be used sparingly. If your interested the above forum contains lots of good (and sometimes contradictory) ideas when making weapons.

I’m interested in trying out the Plasti Dip, and plan to use some on a shield for St. Wolfgangs, have to see how it works out.

Bryn.

Thats really useful…

Hoaly shit I forgot about isoflex - how the hell did I manage that!

Hells yea - isoflex is the way forward with shields!

Let me know how the others work out - I need somthing to finnish my shield with :slight_smile:

[quote=“TequilaDave”]I vote talcum powder, is cheap and non toxic :stuck_out_tongue:

I used a very small amount on the sword I bought from yourself Ryan between each game, and didn’t notice any dulling at all :smiley:[/quote]

Probably because those swords are coated in some sort of primer, like Isoflex. So the talc you added wasn’t sticking directly to the latex, it was attaching (probably poorly) to the primer.

If Isoflex does turn out to be available in NZ, I suggest people are very careful with the safety instructions, and work outside with face mask and thick gloves or whatever it says to do. From all accounts it’s not mildly toxic, it’s really very poisonous. Which is the main reason I’ve never really pursued the idea. If Plastidip or whatever works reasonably well and isn’t toxic, that’d be a much better option.

Thanks all for your replies. I will probably end up using talc, because I’m only making one sword and from all accounts, it’ll work.

Now I just need to develop patience, so I can let the latex dry before painting over it. So far, I’m failing to do so and making a bit of a ham of it :blush:

I’m interested in laying my hands on some black plastic dip, because I want to see if it’s tough enough for the thrusting tips on SCA swords :smiley: I remember seeing it on trademe a year or so back, but it was very expensive.

What about silicon spray? It’s clear, non-tacky, and puts a coat on the sword. Does anyone know if it adversely affects the latex? Will it need re-application every so often?

I’ve read that some people use silicon spray (or used to), but most avoid it because it leaves a kind of oily residue.

[quote=“Ryan Paddy”]I’ve read that some people use silicon spray (or used to), but most avoid it because it leaves a kind of oily residue.[/quote]At least it leaves the sword lubricated (silicon spray is the lubricant typically used in AirSoft guns, at least in Auckland). I just can’t think of any use for that :smiley:

I have a couple of Ex-caliber latex swords that came in a plastic sheath, and so I stored them in this plastic sheath. (Lying flat and dark as per the instructions). When I got them out this weekend, the blades had stuck to the inside of the sheath. The only way to get them out was with brute force. It ripped off the outside layer of the sword, which I think is just the silver paint. Is this likely to be just paint?

And so what should I do now?

Does the exposed latex now need painting to ensure its durability is now intact?
Can I re-paint it with some silver waterbased poster paint I have?
And is adding talc to the rest of the weapon appropriate now, or is it horse-bolted-stable-door stuff?
Should I put them back into the plastic sheath to store?
I’m guessing not, so where should I be storing them?

Thanks,
Hananh

ok - firstly who the hell told you to store them in plastic?

It’s too late for talc.

Can you see the foam?

It might just be that they didn’t have a layer of latex over the paint layer - so that has bonded to the plastic and stripped when you pulled it away.

I’m guessing it was the black, custom made “bag” you got with the Excalibur weapons when you bought them. It’s some sort of vinyl thing.

David and Heath had this with theirs as well, but were lucky enough to not rip anything off the weapon. Sorry Hannah, you might be looking at new weapons.

seriously - weapons supplied un talked and reccomended to be stored in Vinyl :open_mouth:

just… wow…

Hannah let me know when you can bring them along to somthing in the near future and I / somone can see if they are salvagable.

Seriously tho… I would be having words with the vendor if you followed storage instructions.

So, what should they be stored in?

(I hav emine hanging in their bags in the wardrobe - but now I’m planning to take them out, as soon as I find out how they should be stored)

The Ex-Caliber weapons come in a black plastic carry bag, and inside that is a clear plastic sheath. My experience with them is that it’s a bad idea to store them directly in the black plastic bag. However, if you put them in the clear plastic sheath and then put that in the black plastic bag you’re usually okay.

The clear sheath is somewhat slick and tends not to stick. I stored some weapons in them for several years and they came out fine.

I used to hang them in my wardrobe by a noose around the handle, but now I usually have mine either in a drawer on top of a towel, or even standing in a corner of the room if I’m using them frequently - but NEVER tip down. the resident at Cotswold Palace will testify to the number fo times I ranted about weapons being stood on their tips. HEATHENS!