I get camp rolls from the warehouse, they come in two sizes:
600 x 1800 which will give you 3 layers at 600 x 600 which is perfect for a small shield about $12 ???
800 x 1800 which will give you 3 layers at 800 x 600 which is perfect for a large shield about $15 ???
If you want a center grip (which I prefer) you can insert a fiberglass core, otherwise you don’t need one. I use recycled bubble tent poles for that, but a piece of dowel or plastic tube would work as well. I don’t use corflute for handles.
Which covers much of the same ground as Viperion’s, but slightly different methods (I use ADOS rather than Gorilla Glue, and use 3 layers of corflute with a foam facing, rather than 3 layers, foam back, and double-foam facing). I also use more angled straps, but that’s a matter of whatever works for you. Obviously you can cut the corflute in a slightly different shape, but provided you’re making a flat shield, the method is basically the same.
(There are also useful comments from Ryan here about foam shields)
For materials, you buy campmat from the Warehouse ($16 gets you a 1.8 x 1m roll, which gives you a shield plus leftovers), and ADOS and SprayDos from Mitre-10 (ADOS: ~$20 for a 1L tin, if you’re only doing one shield you can buy a smaller one, since its just for the edges; SprayDos ~$18 a can, one can does ~3 shields). Plus craft-knife and blades, duct-tape, a pair of dog collars (all from the $2 shop), fabric cover (~0.7m square front and back to taste) and a piece of old towel (to cover the pad behind the grip).
We will be doing a shield-making workshop in Wellington before Kingdom in February, showing people how to make basic corflute heater and round shields. Costs ~$25, materials supplied, you make one for yourself and one for the gear pool. If there’s demand, maybe someone can organise the same in Auckland?
Which covers much of the same ground as Viperion’s, but slightly different methods (I use ADOS rather than Gorilla Glue, and use 3 layers of corflute with a foam facing, rather than 3 layers, foam back, and double-foam facing). I also use more angled straps, but that’s a matter of whatever works for you. Obviously you can cut the corflute in a slightly different shape, but provided you’re making a flat shield, the method is basically the same.[/quote]Indeed. In fact I gave up on the gorilla glue pretty quickly and used Ados in a can for the layers, and SprayDos (Ados in a Spray Can) to glue the fabric to the shield.
I possibly had one too many layers of foam; the shield is thick, but it does make it even more safe and I was able to carry it around pretty much all day every day at Teonn without my arm falling off
That is probably the spray stuff. The tin 1l is pretty good as is Bostik’s super contact, or even the CRC multipurpose contact adhesive. A 1l tin will do all you need it to
Do you want your shield to curve? If so, corflute a) won’t work, and b) isn’t necessary. Laminating two sheets of foam together in a curve gives them the strength you need. If you want to be extra sure it’s strong and rip-proof, you could also glue a layer of canvas in the centre.
Personally I’d be inclined to make that shield with 2 layers of camp mat, having a vertical fibreglass rod between them, and a boss over a central hand grip. Two straps would work too, but it’s a personal preference thing about how you like to use your shield. A single hand grip allows you to extend the shield away from your body.
Given that its a period example I’m gonna guess yes, but if I was to include a groove it would be to catch and twist swords for disarming or upsetting the opponents balance if they chose to hold on to the weapon.
So here are some designs I’ve been working on with the suggestion from Zanni that g looks/works best of the three i was leaning toward.
Thoughts & improvements, please.
Also with the placement of handles/straps, for this shape… will the central rod handle work?
Here are some thoughts - (I’m using the shield concept that is unique from one side to the other for visual purposes, not yet decided on the shape).
A vertical central rod handle will work for that shield, I’ve used it for a heater shield. Just bear in mind that type of handle doesn’t protrude from the shield, it’s a hole in the middle of the shield with the handle exposed. That’s why it’s needs a “boss”, to protect the hand. The boss projects forward from the shield, so you’d need to account for it in your design. The boss doesn’t have to be circular/half-sphere, that’s just the most common shape.
If you go for straps then the distance between the straps should be the distance from the inside of your elbow to where your fist grips. It’s not a long way so it won’t be as close to the edges of the shield as you’ve drawn. It’s about 28cm for me, for example, and your shield will probably be at least 50cm wide.
Sword catching/pulling/twisting isn’t really an option with larp swords, too much risk of damaging other people’s expensive kit as latex swords don’t respond well to rough treatment. You can trap swords against something, but that’s about it. Doesn’t look like the designs you’re looking at would trap swords especially anyhow.
Thanks I’ll get to measuring. Do you still have that heater shield? Any chance you could throw up some pictures of it to show the handle positioning?
Mm, I figured that about the rough combat… which is why I’ve not really gone for the catch/mount groove, I’m just going for menacing or eye-catching spike flare.
(Yes, its carboard - that’s because its a mockup. The final version is here)
Note the diagonal line leading down from the top right corner. Basically you hang the shield from that corner, use a plumb-line to draw a vertical, and that’s the line your arm goes on. With proper strapping you can then use the entire thing using your elbow, and your hand basically provides a bit of guidance.