Gearing up for Teonn - Kharnak's Shield Thread

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#41

Cool. And with it being circular, the debate over horizontal or vertical grip is probably moot. Assuming any design you put on it doesn’t have an “up”.

Designs that run circularly around the boss are great for round shields, I reckon. Like the Forgotten Dreams Gaelic shields:

[attachment=0]FDD-G2075-02DM.jpg[/attachment]

I would have like to bring one of those in to see it in person, but unfortunately they’d be about $232 and I wasn’t sure if one would sell at that price, despite the pretty. They are 75cm.

#42

Oh, and here’s how Forgotten Dreams do the grip on those shields. It’s different again.

[attachment=0]schildgriff_4.jpg[/attachment]

#43

Silicon Rubber Waterproofing (for like round shower doors etc) could be used for raised detail…its flxible and less likely to crack.

#44

[quote=“Ryan Paddy”]Oh, and here’s how Forgotten Dreams do the grip on those shields. It’s different again.

[attachment=0]schildgriff_4.jpg[/attachment][/quote]

I prefer a grip that is at the center of mass of the shield. It just works better.

#45

But on the other hand that grip would extend your reach. :slight_smile:

#46

Usually reaching an incoming blow isn’t a problem. If you need to reach further than the end of your arm, it was going to miss anyway.

#47

chuckles I am now sold on the circular shield.

here is pic of me learning the finer points of string-marker compass marking on the cardboard mock up.

So far we have the boss and two crossed pieces of cardboard XD

Watch this space! :smiley:

#48

Okay so I fell into my own trap of 8s or 10s I’ll explain as I go.

here is my design:

shield_concepts_design_01.jpg601×602

I wasn’t sure how large the boss would be over the whole shield but it seems what I slapped together fits well.

So here’s my mock up progress:

Shield and Boss

Measuring, Fitting and Circle-drawing.

Much checking and rechecking is being done - even for the mock-up :open_mouth:

So here is where I start to mess up. I have drawn and cut out 8s for my curve of the outer shield. (similar style to the boss but the middle region remains flat).

In my design I have 10 curvy diamond points, the idea is to have the curve cuts under these - but I forgot - good thing this is a mock up :slight_smile:

Layers cut out.

Grip for this mock-up is just a piece of broken coat-hanger :unamused:

Design in larger scale on the mock-up! getting excited to see this coming together already
As you can see the inside of the design has 8 overlapping circles, this is where the 8s & 10s get confusing when trying to work out where things are.

#49

Mock-up - success.
I can see how the parts will work, and now have a good outline for the foam sections.


I’m going to make the curve on the rim smaller to prevent the rim of the main piece curving back. But otherwise I think it is looking good. As with the Boss I may also add a rim of the shield that sticks out from beneath the curve (the flat part - see Derek’s boss).

Also I apologise for the poor quality of my laptop webcam. I did not have a camera at hand XD

#50

Looking nice!

#51

That is going to look very nice indeed! Can’t wait to see the finished product

#52

That design looks lovely. Looking forward to seeing final product in person.

#53

Had a busy few weeks. Bout time I got to finishing this.


So far: cut out and stuck together three layers and then most of the raised areas.

#54

That’s looking fantastic. It’s going to be beautiful! Love the raised design work.

#55

Okay, all the embossed bits are on (bar the boss)…

just the grip, boss and painting to do :smiley:

Now that it’s this far, the cloth idea of covering prior to painting, is that still going to work with all the raised edges?

#56

Very intense and cool. Can’t wait to see the finished design!

#57

I don’t think you could cover that with fabric without obscuring the details.

#58

If it’s thin cloth it will work, the edges just won’t be as sharp. And you may need to pick up the detail with a bit of paint.

You might want to just latex it instead.

#59

So for latex option, anyone in the Auckland area got the means + skills in latexing? I can reimburse you on the materials used.

I am a noob, so will appriciate assistance in applying it.

#60

I think this is something that can be done with instructions. You may find a lot of people are busy prepping for Teonn at the moment.

You will need:

[ul][li]Liquid latex (thickened “brushable” thickness) available from TopMark. You will probably want a litre or two to get coverage for a shield, because you’ll be putting on several layers. It can be stored for later projects so long as you keep it airtight.[/li]
[li]Soft brushes you don’t mind ruining. Some bigger for undercoats, some smaller for details.[/li]
[li]Black water-based paint for the undercoats.[/li]
[li]Coloured water-based paints for the top coats. If you’re going metallic, be careful to get copper-free. Copper-based paint rots latex over time. TopMark may be able to provide appropriate metallic colourants for use with liquid latex. [/li]
[li]A sealant, to stop the latex surface being sticky. This isn’t mandatory, you can use something like talcum powder instead but you’ll lose colour and it washes off and has to be re-applied and it can be messy. The trouble is, we haven’t identified a nice, clear, flexible sealant that isn’t too toxic in NZ. If you can find one you’ll be doing the community a big favour - TopMark may be able to make recommendations.[/li]
[li]I see TopMark has something called “PAX paint”. Never heard of it, but maybe this could be used instead of the coloured latex and the sealant. You mix it with paint. So you may be able to apply the under-coats of latex in plain black and then use the PAX paint over that to provide all the colour. I’ve never tried this but on first impression it looks like it could be ideal.[/li][/ul]

Steps:

[ol]
[li]Prepare your clothes and workspace. Latex sticks like a bastard to clothing, carpet, etc. so wear old clothes and do it somewhere appropriate over newspaper. Good ventilation is recommended, as latex has ammonia in it that evaporates as it dries. Note that extra ammonia may come out of the jar when you open it so don’t breath it in. [/li]
[li]Mix some base-colour (e.g. black) paint into some latex. The ratio I’ve used in the past is about 1 teaspoon of paint to 1 cup of latex. Not that it will look very white when it’s mixed in. Latex starts opaque white but dries translucent, so the colour comes out on drying. Paint a little onto a surface and let it dry to see the dried colour, or rub a bit between your finders. You can always add more. [/li]
[li]Paint a layer of base latex onto your shield with a broad soft brush. Try not to leave too many brush strokes, but some can’t be avoided. Note that your brush will gung up with latex as it dries, try to wash it off with water ASAP (and dry before using again) but be aware it will gradually build up and the brush will be ruined. If you have a wire brush that could be used to clean dried latex out of a paintbrush. [/li]
[li]Wait for it to dry. It’s best to work on a sunny day and pop it in the sun. Can take anywhere from 10 minutes to an hour depending on how thick you laid it on and the weather.[/li]
[li]Repeat application of base layer and drying. Number of layers you need varies, if it’s going on thick then three or four might be okay. In the UK they recommend using watery latex and putting on 12 layers, but that is very time consuming especially with drying time. [/li]
[li]Mix top coat color(s) with latex. Paint them on. You may want a couple of layers. This is the arty part, if you’ve done miniature painting then it’s maybe a bit like that. [/li]
[li]Apply sealant (follow its instructions). Or if you’re trying the PAX paint then apply that instead of the last step. The PAX may be the better option, TopMark should be able to advise. [/li][li]Clean your brushes thoroughly if you want to use them again. Seal any remaining latex securely for storage.[/li][/ol]

Hope that helps.